It’s almost sunset at Finniss River Lodge and I’m enjoying a kangaroo tartare canape in a field full of cows. Not just any cows, I might add; the most beautiful, white, floppy-eared Brahman (an American hybrid breed) I’ve ever seen. And they’re only too happy to stop for a selfie.
Less than a week earlier, I had arrived in the Australian outback on a quest to satisfy my appetite for adventure. I love a beach break as much as the next person, but few things beat the thrill of an awe-inducing experience. And in the Northern Territory (NT), the opportunities are endless. Here are seven that make the plane journey entirely worth it.
1. Take a watercolour class in Tjoritja
The NT is divided into two climate zones, the Top End (tropical) and the Red Centre (semi-arid). My journey starts in the latter. West MacDonnell National Park – also known by its Aboriginal name, Tjoritja – is a 161km expanse of incredible rock formations, creeks and canyons. I soak up its rugged beauty during a watercolour class with Anna Dakin, who runs Art Tours of Australia. We find a picture-perfect spot at Simpsons Gap (a stunning gorge carved out of the West MacDonnell Ranges), set up our easels and after two hours of painting, I feel more relaxed than I have in a long time.
2. View the spectacular MacDonnell Ranges from a hot-air balloon
While the Ranges can be explored on foot, experiencing them on a sunrise hot-air-balloon ride with Outback Ballooning is second to none. The pain of a 6am start instantly wears off as we lift off over the spinifex (coastal grass)-covered landscape and spot wallabies carrying out their morning pursuits far below. The complete silence is remarkable.
3. Hike the Rim Walk at Kings Canyon
Kings Canyon offers one of the Red Centre’s most spellbinding hikes: the Rim Walk – a 6km round trip. What starts out as a strenuous 20-minute uphill hike quickly turns into a leisurely stroll with the most breathtaking panoramic views across the canyon. The terracotta-coloured rock faces are like something from a movie (in fact 1994’s The Adventures Of Priscilla, Queen Of The Desert was filmed here) and the Garden of Eden, a lush waterhole teeming with wildlife, is as peaceful a pit stop as it gets.
4. See Uluru and Kata Tjuta by helicopter
Natural wonders are plentiful in the NT but the ancient rock formations of Uluru – the largest sandstone monolith in the world, formerly known as Ayers Rock – and its neighbour Kata Tjuta (made up of 36 giant domes) are deeply sacred to the local Anangu people. In the spirit of adventure, I get a bird’s-eye view on a scenic flight with Professional Helicopter Services. Captain Jake Tully, part-pilot, part-tour guide, explains the history of the sights – wildlife included. ‘See if you can spot any,’ he says as we fly over George Gill Range and Petermann Pound, where camels and wild horses inhabit the land.
5. Enjoy art under the stars
Nearby, an immersive art installation by renowned British light and sound artist, Bruce Munro, is exhibiting indefinitely at Discovery Resorts - Kings Canyon. And after dark (when stargazing is a must) is prime time to enjoy it. ‘Light Towers’ features 69 two-metre towers of light, each made up of more than 200 bottles filled with fibre-optic cables, which change colour in response to British composer Orlando Gough’s soundtrack. Wandering through the vibrant maze of lights is utterly mesmerising.
6. Go off-grid at Bamurru Plains
In the Top End, I encounter the NT’s really wild side. Bamurru Plains in Kakadu is a 70,000-hectare working buffalo station with glamping-style accommodation and no wi-fi or mobile signal: a true bush adventure. We take a guided tour across the floodplains by airboat, encountering water buffalo and plumed whistling ducks. It’s every nature lover’s dream.
7. Experience life on a cattle station at Finniss River Lodge
Getting up close and personal with wildlife is the ethos of Finniss River Lodge, a family-owned cattle station between Darwin and Litchfield National Park, which caters for just 12 guests. Station manager, Chase, involves us in station duties, including mustering cattle and feeding crocodiles.
‘I want people to know that the NT isn’t somewhere you only go once,’ Chase explains as we say our goodbyes — and I can't help but agree. After one week in the outback, I'm already plotting my return.
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