Who knew walking could be a thrill-a-minute adventure? But at chilly first light, I am about to set off on an 8km stroll from bush camp to bush camp through Zambia’s stunning South Luangwa National Park.


Reached by light aircraft and a bumpy one and a half hour drive, it’s one of the few remaining truly wild places on earth, and home to lions, leopards, wild dog packs, raucous hippo pods, elephant and buffalo herds, lurking crocodiles, unique subspecies of zebra and giraffe, skittish impala, bushbuck and poku antelope, and around 400 species of bird. By no means an exhaustive list – there is a lot to experience.

What to read next

So with our armed guard Isaiah in front, and an obvious buzz of anticipation, our larger-than-life guide Brian explained you’re never quite sure what you might meet round the next mopane tree – the lions we heard calling at first light or last night’s camp visitors – two hippos who woke me up as they enjoyed a noisy midnight feast just yards from the grass and reed walls of my cabin.

Then, as we approached an area of thicker cover, a twig snapped and Brian said calmly, ‘stay in single file and if an animal charges at you whatever you do, don’t run.’ I suspect if it had come to it, this would have been easier said than done. But I had complete confidence in our guiding team, because after all, this is where walking safaris began.

Started by conservationist Norman Carr in 1950, his legacy of getting people up close to learn about the animals first-hand is very much alive, with the emphasis on the game experience and the guiding. The team, several of whom worked with Norman himself, have won an impressive number of international awards, including best walking and guiding teams in Africa.



And with their knowledge, expertise, and amazing spotter eyes – where did that leopard come from? – over the next few days, the wow moments just kept coming as we did a combination of walks, jeep safaris and spotlight night drives (learning and seeing something new on every one). We watched incredibly moving mini stories unfold, as a huge matriarchal female elephant appeared from the bush and led her herd, protecting a small calf with their bodies, across the river at dusk. There followed a moment-by-moment drama, as a female leopard frantically dragged her kill higher and higher up a tree to make sure the male leopard circling nearby didn’t snatch her prize. And we were privileged to see each of these intense life and death moments played out just for us, without another jeep or tourist in sight.

The remoteness of this part of the park does make you feel as if you have the whole vast eco-system – the hippo filled lagoons, meandering oxbow lakes and game-filled plains – pretty much all to yourself. And as we walked from Nsolo to Luwi (which has been dubbed ‘the best little bush camp in Africa’), the horizon seemed to go on for ever.

Both camps are wonderful places to spend a night, or several days, and have comfortable beds, delicious food produced from an amazingly small kitchen, and open air bathrooms with hot showers and great views! This is all the more amazing when you think each camp is largely dismantled at the end of the dry season. There were thoughtful touches, too. Hand-picked greenery on our beds at Nsolo, hot water bottles – as June nights at the start of the dry season can still be chilly – and ‘surprises’ such as the whole camp moving to a nearby dry river bed so we could have sundowners and a spectacular dinner served under the stars. Magical!

Finally, for the ultimate in (human) creature comforts, we spent our last two nights at recently opened Chinzombo, the most luxurious camp in the valley. Boasting award-winning architecture, the six super chic lodges have private sun decks with a plunge pool, climate-controlled sleeping areas and swish Out-of-Africa-style leather and canvas interiors. I found the wonderful free-standing bath was the perfect place to watch the baboons putting on a floor show on the river bank outside. There’s also a stunning bar and dining area with framed black and white photographs of Norman out walking with his orphaned lion cubs, Big Boy and Little Boy. I’m not sure what he’d make of all this luxury, but as far as I’m concerned it’s pretty much the perfect way to round off my amazing African adventure.

More information

Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000 coxandkings.co.uk) has a 10-day/seven-night trip to Zambia priced from £4,460pp. This includes return international and domestic flights from London Heathrow, transfers, one night at Lilayi Lodge in Lusaka with breakfast and two nights full board in each of Kapani, Nsolo and Luwi lodges with twice-daily game-viewing activities. A two-night upgrade to Chinzombo from Kapani is priced from £895pp.

Interested in this? You'll love:
Top 5 UK safari holiday
On safari in Tanzania
Family holidays: South African safari