By 
A land full of the world’s nicest people, breathtaking scenery and maple syrup on tap; Canada’s charm is well documented. But it was only when I drove coast to coast – from Toronto to Victoria – sampling the culture for myself that the country truly stole my heart.
I’d quit my full-time job in London after realising a change of scene was needed. It was a risky move but in a pre-Covid world with no mortgage and a flexible husband in tow, it was now or never – and so we found ourselves on a one-way flight to Canada.
CITY BUZZ IN TORONTO
Landing in Toronto in February, the streets were covered in snow and the skies were bright blue, so, excited by the frosty allure, we headed straight for Nathan Phillips Square. The iconic ice rink is open every day during the winter months (yes, even on Christmas Day) and you can skate for free, surrounded by huge lit-up letters and an armada of food trucks.
We spent a total of two weeks in the city, taking advantage of all that it has to offer, from delicious cuisine and warm hospitality to the array of shops and boutiques in the Distillery District and, of course, Niagara Falls. My recommendation? Try Trailfinders’ bike tour for an insider’s take on the major attractions and rich cultural history, before circling back to enjoy the highlights at your own pace.
EUROPEAN MAGIC IN MONTRÉAL
The French-Canadian metropolis of Montréal was next on our bucket list, so, after hiring a 4×4 (complete with snow tyres), we joined the Trans-Canada Highway for a six-and-a-half-hour drive northward. Cobbled streets full of European charm greeted us (most inhabitants speak both English and French) with incredible sights around every corner, from the ornate grandeur of Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica to the lively Place Jacques-Cartier.
The Old Port, a recreational tourism site, comes alive with festivals throughout the year, so chances are there will be an event or two to enjoy while you’re there. We were lucky to arrive in time for Montréal en Lumière (Montréal in Lights), which takes place from February to March and offers live entertainment, marshmallow roasting and views of the city from a Ferris wheel.
WINTER WONDERLAND IN QUÉBEC
With the promise of quaint fairy-tale scenes just three hours away, we couldn't resist heading to Québec City (or Vieux-Québec, ‘Old Québec’, as the locals call it) to soak up the joie de vivre. The great thing about road trips is the freedom to hit the highway and satisfy your itchy feet at the drop of a hat.
Fairmont Le Château Frontenac was our base (a castle-like hotel that stands at the centre of the old walled city) so we could explore the Francophone district by foot, from Haute-Ville (‘upper town’) on the hill to la Basse-Ville (‘lower town’) by the river. Sparkling lights, decorations and a blanket of snow still covered the town, making for an enchanting Christmas-style village, despite it being mid-March.
The Québécois winter is notoriously unforgiving but a selection of boutiques offering faux-fur hats, soft scarves and insulated gloves soon took care of the chill. And did we sample quintessentially French-Canadian comfort food – namely poutine, a combination of chips, cheese curds and gravy? Mais oui!
ADVENTURE IN WHISTLER
Jumping back in the car to continue our journey, we drove cross-country on open roads, lined with snow-capped forests, in the direction of Vancouver, over 4,805km away. We made overnight stops en route in Winnipeg, Calgary and Banff, taking the time to soak up the jaw-droppingly beautiful mountains and glacial lakes, as well as enjoy the spontaneity of detours and the occasional moose sighting.
Whistler is a must-stop, complete with crisp alpine air, a rich indigenous art heritage, and many unique experiences on offer. The west-coast mountain town has activities by the bucketload, whether you’re looking to ski Olympic slopes, have a zip-line adventure or go dog sledding through the white wilderness. My highlight? A gloriously rejuvenating day at the Scandinave Spa.
ISLAND LIFE IN VICTORIA
Vancouver welcomed us with the sudden appearance of sunshine and cherry blossoms, a happy respite after weeks of snow. The cosmopolitan destination is brilliantly vibrant, but with endless recommendations to visit Victoria on Vancouver Island – a two-hour ferry crossing from the mainland – it wasn’t long before we were on our way.
Having left the city skyline behind, we ate ice creams while waiting for the ferry at Horseshoe Bay. The recommendations were spot on – Victoria, on Vancouver Island’s southern tip, is a hub of serenity. Brightly painted water taxis transport you from the docks to waterfront eateries, locals greet you with huge smiles, and the abundance of greenery feels good for the soul.
Of course, a trip to Canada wouldn’t be complete without a whale-watching expedition. Aboard a cruise, we were blown away when a family of these ocean mammals breached the surface of the Pacific to say hello. What a way to bring our Canadian adventure to a close, the final highlight on this bear hug of a road trip.
Need some expert help with planning your Canadian adventure? Whether you want to explore the great outdoors or the great indoors, Trailfinders is the UK’s No1 tour operator to Canada, and well-travelled consultants use their personal knowledge of Canada to fully customise your holiday. Combining technology, such as its ViewTrail app, one-to-one service and Trailfinders’ Peace of Mind policy, there is no quicker, safer or more enjoyable way to plan your travels.
To book, call Trailfinders on 020 7795 4570 or visit trailfinders.com/canada
