When it comes to red sauce, I confess I’m something of a purist. The supermarket shelves are groaning with pretenders to the crown nowadays, from cheaper, own-brand alternatives to upmarket ‘luxury’ versions that, quite honestly – so far as I’m concerned – miss the point of ketchup entirely. It should be sweet, it should be salty, it should be tangy. Frankly, it should be Heinz.
I’ve even had this put to the test in blind tastings, when I can spot a non-Heinz dupe with laser precision. I’m not saying you can’t have a decent bacon sarnie with a knock-off version; I’m just saying some things are classics for a reason.
‘When it comes to ketchup, of course It Has To Be Heinz’
The launch of Heinz’s new ‘Zero’ ketchup therefore has met with some scepticism here in the GH test kitchens (and at bacon buttie headquarters, aka my home). Promising the same familiar flavour but with no added sugar and salt (which are the first ingredients listed after tomatoes and vinegar on the classic ketchup, indicating their relative quantity by weight in the product), there was no way it was going to deliver, was there?
Surprise! It’s really good. Really, quite annoyingly good. And that’s not just one opinion – everyone I’ve had try it has said they like it as much, or even more, than the OG. How has Heinz done it? There are loads more tomatoes in every bottle – 35% more than the classic ketchup – which, when cooked down, will be bringing their own natural sweetness and umami depth to the sauce. There is sucralose in there, so it’s not without a sweetener, but that’s the last ingredient in the mix, rather than the third, so what comes through is the tomato and herb-spice flavour blend associated with this iconic sauce.
‘Consumers expect “Zero” products to fall flat on flavour – because “Zero” often means “less,”’ says Alexandra Bayet, Heinz’s European head of innovation for tomato ketchup. ‘We wanted to turn that on its head and create a ketchup that’s all about more of what you love. Developed using our 150-year sauce know-how and containing sun-ripened tomatoes grown especially for Heinz, our new Zero Added Sugar & Salt Tomato Ketchup delivers a bold, satisfying taste that lives up to the standard set by our iconic original. So, whether you’re choosing Zero or Classic, you can be confident it will taste like Heinz.’
Emma is Cookery Editor for Good Housekeeping and loves nothing more than sharing her bottomless enthusiasm for all things food and drink with anyone who wants to learn (and even those who don’t!). From super simple one pan suppers to showstopping wedding cakes and everything in between, there’s very little that doesn’t come out of her kitchen. When not developing recipes, writing features or styling food for photography she can be found hiding behind the mountain of cookery books that’s slowly overtaking her house, or exploring restaurants, food shops and festivals in search of the next big thing to share with readers. On the rare days when she’s not thinking about food, you’ll find her in a cosy pub at the end of a long walk with her dog and expert food taster, Angua.