Our marital bathroom is a tip. There’s shaving oil smeared on the taps, a razor cluttering up the side of the sink, and fuzzy side-burn scrapings nestled on the blade. Truly, a disgrace.
No wonder my husband is annoyed with me.
Yes, I must hold up my hands to this one. I’m a lady who shaves her face, a beauty habit which isn’t as unusual or taboo as you might assume.
Dermaplaning, to give the practice its official name, first became popular as a salon treatment and spilled over to the DIY sphere, with millions of social media clicks, and converts smugly stroking their silky skin. Scarlett Johansson is among its DIY celebrity fans, and I’m sure my husband wouldn’t kick her out of the ensuite for leaving the odd bit of peach fuzz in the plughole.
And right there is the key term: peach fuzz. To be clear, this isn’t a feature about hirsute hormonal imbalances (or my secret life as a werewolf). It’s about the fine vellus hair that grows on the sides of the face and what to expect if you choose to shave it off. Which, I must emphasise, you absolutely do not need to – it’s 100% healthy and normal.
The first thing I’d say in dermaplaning’s favour is that it ticks the instant gratification box: a real dopamine hit for anyone who drums their fingers waiting for their new retinol to kick in. ‘When you remove peach fuzz, it immediately gives your complexion a smoother, more refined appearance,’ says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London.
‘This helps makeup sit more evenly and glide on without catching on hair or dry patches.’
Or to put it as in the words of my teenage daughter (Gen Z are devoted dermaplaners): ‘Well, obviously you’d do it, Mum. Why would you want to have furry foundation?’
As well as sparing this indignity, dermaplaning also promises more bang for your skincare buck. Downy hair is shaved away with a specialist dermaplaning razor, which gently exfoliates the skin’s surface at the same time. ‘It lifts away dead skin cells, which can improve the absorption and efficacy of your serums and moisturisers,’ says Dr Mahto. ‘Many people notice an instant glow and softer skin texture afterwards.’
That much is definitely true. I’m embarrassed to confess that a significant portion of my enthusiasm stems from the comment I got after my very first defuzzing. A friend leaned towards my freshly-shaved face - not a feature I’d drawn attention to - and asked what I’d been ‘doing’ lately. It may have been coincidence, it may have been flattery, but hearing the words ‘Benjamin’ and ‘Button’ were enough to sell it to me.
Beyond the blarney, I also love the way my skin drinks up skincare afterwards. As well as giving an addictively silky feeling, I’m confident that sloughing off the dead layer extends a welcoming hand to all those anti-ageing actives I slather on now I'm 50.
It's also very affordable. The Tweezerman blade I'm holding is Scarlett's favourite, and comes in at a not-too-bad £18, but I've also happily used cheaper, but still good quality options such as Venus Dermaplaning Blades which are a tenner on Amazon, and Wilkinson Sword Intuition razors which are a steal at four quid.
Also, the plethora of celebrity fans, including Eva Mendes, Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon as well as Scarlett, assures me I'm in glamorous company when I shave my face.
However, there are caveats and cautions to share along with the compliments. ‘The results can be rewarding but only when done well,’ stresses Dr Mahto. ‘Improper technique or poor hygiene can cause micro-injuries and sensitivity. Overdoing it or using poor-quality blades can lead to irritation or compromise your skin barrier.’
Speaking as someone who’s occasionally been sloppy and got nicked as a consequence, I must echo the importance of taking time and care when you’ve got a scalpel-like blade in your hand. (Read the how-do guide, below, first.)
Some people should steer clear completely. ‘Those with active acne, rosacea, eczema, or highly sensitive skin should generally avoid dermaplaning, as it can exacerbate inflammation and trigger breakouts, especially in the acne-prone,’ says Dr Mahto.
Managing your expectations is also vital. ‘At-home dermaplaning is different to a professional salon treatment,’ says Dr Mahto. ‘A clinic treatment is performed using a sterile, sharper, surgical-grade scalpel in expert hands. This allows for more precise, thorough removal of dead skin and fine hair, offering more dramatic results without compromising safety.’ So go easy. This is not the time to become a DIY derm.
Finally, no conversation on dermaplaning would be complete without tackling the one, big, prickly issue: will that freshly-mown face start sprouting stubble soon after? ‘Not at all; it’s a myth that dermaplaning makes hair grow back thicker, darker, or coarser. Fine vellus hair will grow back with just the same texture,’ reassures Dr Mahto.
So while face shaving may not be glamorous, it’s quick, cheap and instantly effective when it’s done properly, not to mention ickily satisfying when you examine the blade. On that basis, I’ll keep the fur flying.
How to dermaplane safely
Choose a high-quality dermaplaning blade. ‘Look for a tool specifically designed for facial use, not a body razor,’ says Dr Mahto.
Cleanse your face thoroughly first, and don’t dermaplane dry. Apply a hydrating serum or simple facial oil to improve glide. 'This reduces friction and lowers the risk of irritation,’ says Dr Mahto. (By the way, the shaving foam in the photos above was just pinched from my husband for comedy purposes! )
Hygiene is crucial. 'Always disinfect your blade and wash your hands thoroughly before and after,’ says Dr Mahto.
Hold the skin taut and gently glide the blade at a 45-degree angle in short strokes, working in the direction of hair growth. Avoid areas of active breakouts or sensitivity.
Replenish hydration. Dr Mahto advises using a bland, fragrance-free hydrating serum and moisturiser straight afterwards. ‘A moisturiser with ceramides would be beneficial in supporting your barrier function,’ adds facialist Debbie Thomas. Cerave Moisturising Cream Tube, £12, is my fail-safe.
Protect your shaved skin. Debbie says: ‘My number one tip is to use a good SPF daily; removing dead skin exposes the delicate living skin beneath which is more vulnerable to UV damage. Dr Mahto adds: ‘Avoid harsh actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids for at least 24–48 hours after dermaplaning.’
Don’t overdo it. ‘Every 2-4 weeks is sufficient for most people; doing it more frequently can risk over-exfoliation and irritation’ says Debbie.
