Covering dark circles is one of beauty’s trickiest balancing acts. There are plenty of heavy-duty concealers to smother them, but if you’re then left with visibly caked and creased undereyes, you’ve just swapped one problem for another, far worse one. What’s really needed is a hush-hush way to disguise rings under your eyes and keep them hidden out of sight all day.
Disguising dark circles is something that makeup artist Ruby Hammer is frequently quizzed about. ‘You want to look fresher, but invisibly,’ she says. ‘There’s no point covering up dark rings if makeup is emphasising every line.’
So how is it all done? Read on to discover the insider makeup tricks that will give you fresher, smoother, brighter eyes in minutes, all with maximum discretion.
Tip 1: Coverage starts before makeup
While a good concealer is key to this secret cover-up mission, it’s not the first product you should reach for. ‘For everyday tiredness, I’ll use an eye patch first to depuff, smooth and help to reduce dark circles,’ says Ruby. ‘I like Elemis Pro-Collagen Hydra-Gel Eye Mask.’
You can also give your efforts a leg-up with eye cream. As Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder of Adonia Medical Clinic, explains: ‘If your under-eye area is dry, it’ll appear darker. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine and ceramides can have some immediate benefits for dark circles.’
Just remember, less is more with eye cream. ‘Hydrating well helps your concealer blend but don’t overdo it, or your concealer will slide,’ says Ruby. ‘Make sure you are using an eye cream that also actively deals with dark rings, like Murad Vita-C Dark Circle Serum or CeraVe Eye Repair Cream. Prevention and treatment is always going to be better long term than simply covering up.’
Tip 2: Know your enemy
There are two key causes of dark circles you can address with makeup: fatigue and pigmentation. For best results, it’s vital to know which you’re dealing with, and take the right action.
When dark circles are down to late nights, ‘a good lightweight, buildable concealer with a radiant finish can be enough,’ Ruby says. ‘You want something that reflects light rather than masking everything with heaviness. Liquid or serum textures work beautifully for this.’
One of GH’s invisible favourites is Studio 10 Brightening Boost Serum Concealer, £27, hailed by beauty director Lynne as the best she’s ever found for remaining crease-free. Another fantastic pick is Maybelline Instant Anti Age Eraser Concealer, so good that Hollywood MUA Ash K Holm told us it’s the product every woman over 40 should have in her makeup bag – not bad for a product costing a tenner!
Tip 3: Go gently, and double dab to avoid creases
A light touch will avoid product sitting in fine lines, Ruby says. ‘I use a small brush, like our Tapered Brush (in the multi-use Ruby Hammer Magnetic Brush Set), to precisely target the darkness without overloading the area. Place product only where the shadows fall, then tap and blend it outwards. A gentle hand gives the most natural result.’
'And never drag your concealer down too far — you want to lift and illuminate, not highlight the entire under-eye. Less, targeted, and well-blended is always more flattering.'
Celebrity makeup artist Hannah Martin advocates for a ‘final pat and blend’ at the very end of your makeup, to whisk away any excess concealer that might have settled. ‘It really makes all the difference to stopping creasing.’
Tip 4: Layer up for pigmentation rings
Hold fire on the concealer! For darker circles, which are usually caused by undereye pigmentation, you’ll need a neutralising underlayer first. ‘If you apply concealer straight onto dark circles without correcting first, the area can turn ashy or grey,’ warns makeup artist and Studio 10 founder Grace Fodor. ‘Worse, you’ll end up piling on layers to compensate – and that’s when it cakes.’
Dark, pigmented rings generally have a blue or purple undertone, which you can neutralise with a peach or orange colour corrector, depending on your skin tone, advises Ruby. She loves Bobbi Brown Colour Corrector Stick, £29, and MAC Studio Fix Conceal and Correct Palette, £32, for this.
Don’t be fazed by the corrector shades – this is only step one, explains Grace. ‘I like to press corrector in with a fingertip, focusing on the areas of deepest discolouration. Then, once it’s fully settled, apply a light layer of concealer in a shade that closely matches your skin tone. This will make dark rings vanish.’
Tip 5: Keep it sheer
Keep coverage as light as possible, notes Ruby. ‘You only need a tiny amount to correct… not Instagram-worthy triangles! ‘The biggest mistake is thinking more product equals more coverage. It doesn’t — it just exaggerates texture.’
Even if you’ve got very dark circles, it’s better to layer up sheer formulas rather than going in hard with the thick, opaque cover-ups of yesteryear. If you feel like you might need a touch more coverage, Grace advises stepping back and really looking in the mirror - ‘this will show if you need more product. If you do, add a second, very thin layer of concealer only where needed.’
Tip 6: Make the brightness pop
Wearing too-light concealer is a common blunder (it just looks weird and obvious), but there’s one clever exception. For an extra brightening boost, Grace says you can finish with a concealer that's a shade or two lighter than your usual shade. ‘Just one dot blended in the inner and outer corners of the under-eye is enough to lift everything,’ says Grace.
For a final pro touch, ‘I like to sweep a sheer wash of concealer across eyelids to brighten the whole eye area,’ says Grace.
Tip 7: Keep circles locked down
Don’t forget to seal the deal, says Ruby. ‘I always set any concealer with a whisper of translucent powder, applied only where needed with a tiny fluffy brush.’ Just go very easy, as too much can make the under-eyes look dry.
‘Think precision, not baking,’ adds Ruby. ‘If you’re out all day, a quick tap with a brush to refresh and reset makes a huge difference — which is why I always keep a travel brush in my bag. My Magnetic Brush Set is great for this!’
Tip 8: Draw attention away
Don’t underestimate the art of distraction. As Ruby puts it: ‘If you’re worried about dark circles, address them and then throw the attention elsewhere - a bit of blush, a nice lipstick, a nice mascara works wonders.’
