Eyeliner is a beauty staple, and for good reason: it’s one of those products that makes an instant difference. In a stroke, it makes eyes look bigger, brighter, lifted and more youthful.
It’s also incredibly versatile. There’s an eyeliner for every occasion; it might be a statement wing, or a soft sweep for added definition, perhaps a smoked-out liner for a sultrier look.
That being said, it’s one of the trickier skills to master. It’s not as simple as tapping on a little blush or swiping on a lipstick. To get it right, you need patience, a little practice and ideally a steady hand, although there are a few hacks to help you, well, wing it!
To help you navigate the world of eyeliner, we’ve called in the experts to share their top tips. So, whether you’re looking to experiment with a new shape or you’re a beginner who doesn’t know gel liners from liquid, we have the answers to mastering the art and making it last all day.
What formula should I be using?
Not all eyeliners are created equal. In fact, the formula you choose can completely transform your look. Liquid liner offers sharp precision, creamy pencils are great for smoking out and gel liner offers a great middle ground. And, of course, some formulas will be more beginner-friendly than others.
Dominic Skinner, director of makeup artistry at MAC, and host of BBC Three’s Glow Up, advises: ‘Pencil can be easier but might not give you the sharpest of points. Meanwhile, liquid can be trickier as it’s wetter, but the point of the brush means you can sometimes get it in one sweep.
‘Personally, I find gel liner the best, as you can choose the brush you find easiest, like an angled brush. Gel liner can sometimes be drier, but it doesn’t smudge or transfer.’
How do I choose the right eyeliner style for my eye shape?
Once you’ve found your preferred formula, it’s not as easy as swiping it on and hoping for the best. Different styles and shapes will have dramatically different effects. A classic cat-eye will create a lifted feline-esque effect (hence the name), while a tightline (applied next to lashes and/or into the inner waterline) will create a smokier, alluring look.
If the options are leaving you overwhelmed, the solution is simple: identify your eye shape. This way, you can find a style that will best suit your features.
Bobbi Brown senior pro artist Warren Dowdall says: ‘Choosing the right eyeliner style is all about enhancing your natural eye shape.’ Here’s how:
For almond eyes, you can pretty much rock any style, but a lifted flick can really highlight your shape.
Round eyes look amazing with a slight wing that extends outward to elongate the shape.
For a monolid eye shape, a thicker line that tapers outwards looks chic.
For puppy-dog eyes with a slight downturn, a soft flick that lifts upwards at the ends can give a lovely, natural lift.
What are the top tips and tricks when it comes to applying eyeliner?
Now, we all like to make our lives (and beauty routines) easier. Thankfully, the pros have shared some handy tips and tricks that they’ve learned over the years. And there’s one you’re almost certainly getting wrong.
Dominic says: ‘Strangely, the best tip for applying eyeliner is to keep your eyes open. Apply the basic shape of the liner while looking straight into a mirror. Once you’ve mapped it out, close your eyes and fill in the gaps. Think of it as sketching. Use small, light strokes instead of trying to do it all in one go. If you’re a bit shaky, rest your elbow on a table and anchor your baby finger on your cheek for some stability.’
On a similar note, Warren adds: ‘If you find getting an even application on both eyes a challenge, map out your line with a pencil liner or eyeshadow first before going over it with liquid or gel.’ Yes, those art lessons from school do come in handy!
I have hooded eyes – what’s the best way to apply eyeliner?
Eyeliner can be tricky on hooded eyes. With less visible lid space, liner can be prone to smudging or disappearing entirely, but a simple tweak of technique will make all the difference.
Makeup artist Ruby Hammer MBE advises: ‘When you have hooded eyes, apply a pencil or gel liner as close as you can to the upper lash line, and smudge it for softness. Then use a taupe-coloured eyeshadow over the lid and sweep it in an arch, higher up towards the eyebrows, so it’s doing the job of the crease you don’t have. Buff gently so the liner and eyeshadow blend well.’
What are some common mistakes people make when applying eyeliner?
Most of us have experienced a liner mishap, but there are ways to avoid a Claudia Winkleman-style makeup malfunction if you know where you’re going wrong.
Warren says: ‘Pulling your skin taut while applying is a big mistake. Once you let go, the line can warp. Instead, tilt your chin up and look down into a mirror to apply.’
Another mistake is leaving the liner unblended on the lower lash line, says Warren. ‘This can look harsh and make the eyes look smaller. Be sure to smudge it a bit for a more flattering finish.
Skipping primer or powder on your lids means your liner is more likely to smudge or fade faster, he adds. ‘I always apply a small amount of pressed powder before eyeshadow and liner as this helps absorb any surface oils on the lids.’
How can I adapt eyeliner for mature skin?
Here at GH, we firmly believe that age shouldn’t dictate what you wear. However, with ageing comes a change in skin texture, which can make your eye makeup routine a bit trickier. But instead of giving up on eyeliner, you just need to adapt your techniques.
‘Liquid liner can look a bit harsh, and it doesn’t help that you probably can’t see as well as you did,’ says Ruby. ‘I know I don’t wear it as often now because I need my magnifying mirror. I need to take time – I can’t just whip it on the way I used to be able to.’
She continues: ‘The most important thing to remember is that it doesn’t have to be a liquid liner. It could be a nice pencil, or a shadow applied very, very near to the upper and lower eyelashes, then just smudged through. Rather than black, use brown, but make sure it’s a shade or two darker than a beige or taupe, so you have good definition.’
‘For older women, I suggest using a soft pencil on the upper lash line. It doesn’t have to be precise. Then use a little brush to just soften it and get it right into the lash line. Once you put a bit of mascara on it, that gives nice definition and the illusion of thicker lashes.’
Ruby adds that heavy liner on the lower lashes can drag the eye down: ‘It’s better to concentrate your liner up the upper lashes, as close to the lash as you can, and have it thicker out at the outer edges to lift everything upwards and outwards.’
