“It’s soft power,” says Allison Janney’s character, Vice President Grace Penn, of her blonde bob in a scene from season 2 of The Diplomat. Addressing the Netflix series’ lead character Kate Wyler (US ambassador to the UK), played by Keri Russell, she highlights the importance of considered grooming when serving one’s country.
“It’s a shorthand, so that people really see what you stand for and little girls dress like you for Halloween.” She hammers her point home with a takedown of Kate’s own somewhat disheveled hairstyle: “You probably think that your hair says you’re too busy serving the country to get a blowout, but it reads as bedhead, which sends a signal that I think in this case is better unsent.”
No shade on bedhead from our side, but there’s no denying that Grace’s fresh blonde bob is smart in every sense; elegant, polished and distinctive. There’s a whiff of Anna Wintour about it, but while it goes big on gravitas, it’s less severe and more wearable for the rest of us. The look was masterminded with Hillary Clinton in mind by makeup and hair designer Roo Maurice and styled for the show by makeup, hair and wig specialist Natalie Fox, but you can make it your own, too…
How to get a smart blonde bob haircut
“Ask your stylist for a blunt bob that sits around the lowest part of your chin, with soft face framing layers – or a long sweeping fringe, if you prefer,” says leading hairstylist Tom Smith. What sets Janney’s bob apart from the plethora of bob haircuts out there? Tom agrees with Grace’s “soft power” summary: “It’s a look that almost perfectly balances practicality with style. The blunt length of the bob makes fine to medium hair textures look thicker, while the soft fringe and subtle face framing elements are really flattering and give the cut a more ‘designed’ finish.”
If you’re considering an understated sweeping fringe, Tom is all for it. “It’s more practical than you’d think,” he says. “The hairs around your hairline are finer and shorter anyway, and this cut makes an intentional feature of them. The effect is beautifully delicate, yet the bob itself is still a powerful statement.”
Mark Hayes, international creative director of the House of Sassoon (where all bobs originally hail from), also recommends asking for some “gentle layering throughout the ends or underneath the body of the hair to make the style really versatile.” Better still, bookmark this feature and show the lead image to your stylist. “A picture like this is a really good reference to take to your hairdresser; from there, they can suggest tweaks that will tailor the cut perfectly to you,” he adds.
How to achieve Allison Janney’s hair colour
Getting blonde hair that suits you is a matter of choosing a shade that works with your natural undertones. In Janney’s case, her colour is “a creamy neutral blonde; not too golden and not too ashy”, according to Tom. “It looks natural but bright, and the slight shadow at the roots keeps the look interesting and also increases the look of thickness in the hair.” If you’ve found a blonde hue that’s perfect but doesn’t stay that way for long, heed Tom’s aftercare advice. “Yellowing, brassiness and quick colour fade can be an issue with this hair colour, so try incorporating a violet toning shampoo, such as Olaplex No.4P Blonde Enhancer Toning Shampoo, £28, every few washes to keep the tone of your blonde gorgeously creamy.”
How to style a smart blonde bob
Tom suggests keeping products “lightweight, volumising and protective” to maintain movement and keep lengths glossy and in great condition. Before blow-drying, evenly spritz hair with a heat protection spray (Mark loves O&M Project Sukuroi, £39.50, for its instantly smoothing effects).
From there, Mark advocates blow-drying hair with a half-round brush for the best control and to give roots a gentle lift that’s not overly bouncy. “Wrap the hair around the head of the brush, pointing the hairdryer down the hair shaft to smooth the cuticle and make hair more reflective [and therefore shiny]. The aim of wrap-drying is to dry the hair evenly all over the head rather than in sections. Apply the same process to the fringe but without so much lift.” This helps your fringe blend into the body of your hair.
If you have a slightly longer bob, Mark also recommends softly curling the ends under in sections from the nape of the neck outwards towards the end of the drying process to give hair shape, finishing with a cool shot on your hairdryer for extra shine.
For even smoother lengths, grab your straighteners and “work section by section from the mid lengths to the ends, gently curving the irons so that your style looks really natural.” Whatever you do, avoid taking your straightening irons right up to the roots. “This can make bob styles look stiff and wig-like,” he says.
To style your fringe, keep your straighteners on and reach for a comb. “When styling a fringe, I know people often use a big brush or their fingers, but what you really need is a sectioning clip and a good comb (I use our YS Park Orange 70th Anniversary Comb, £20) to enable you to take a small enough section to run the hot irons over for a sleek result,” says Mark.
For a (neatly) windswept swish like Allison Janney’s character, Mark’s advice is to “loosely lift the hair (or turn your head upside down) and mist a dry volumising spray throughout, gently arranging your style once you come up for air!” GH loves Arkive The Movement Dry Texturising Spray, £13, for instant fullness.
As well as being a strong look, a bob cut like Janney’s can make getting ready in the morning that bit easier, according to Mark. “It remains a fact that the bob is one of the hardest cuts to perfect but one of the easiest cuts to wear; the genius of it is in its simplicity for the wearer. Vidal Sassoon originally designed this cut so that women wouldn’t have to come back to the salon to style it – the point of it is freedom!” That’s a USP that Janney’s VP character Grace would surely endorse.
Watch all six episodes of The Diplomat season 2 on Netflix from 31 October.
