Ask a Derm: Do I Need Products Specifically For My Scalp?
A doc explains why happier hair starts at the roots.
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It’s logical that hair that grows from a healthy scalp is, itself, healthier. In fact, in a recent goodhousekeeping.com poll, 89 percent of readers said they believe the condition of their scalp impacts the look of their hair. Yet, only 21 percent are using products designed just for the scalp. Not sure where to start? Just remember that scalp is skin — and it should be treated that way.
So, does that mean you can just scrub your scalp with your favorite exfoliating face wash? Or dab it with that hydrating toner you love? Not so fast. The skin in this area, explains board-certified dermatologist Dr. Hadley King, “is unique due to the density of terminal hair follicles and high rate of sebum production.” This means that you need concentrations, formulas, and sometimes even ingredients that are different from the products that you use on your face.
Enter: the new class of scalp-specific offerings. Below, Dr. King breaks down our readers’ top scalp questions and shops out the products that will get your scalp (and hair!) looking and feeling its very best. All of her picks are available to shop online at Dermstore, the digital beauty retail haven that experts trust to carry the best products in the business.
Answer: Not for most people. Adding a scalp-specific cleanser could be a game-changer, according to Dr. King. These clarifiers and scrubs work to lift away the gunk, oil, dead skin cells and product residue that many shampoos can’t. “They are particularly helpful for those with dry scalp, dandruff and oily hair.” Below, Dr. King breaks down her top picks.
Dr. King recommends swapping this scrub for shampoo once or twice a week. It uses sea salt to gently exfoliate and remove residues from styling products and sweet almond oil to moisturize. “It’s gentle yet effective — a great option for those experiencing itchiness.”
Dr. King’s pick for dandruff-prone folks, this exfoliating shampoo is the ticket to feeling fresh and clean without over-stripping the hair and causing damage. The magic comes down to the combo of two ingredients: “Coconut oil moisturizes to help prevent dryness and flaking while tea tree oil has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties,” explains Dr. King.
The reason this rinse is a must for coarse hair types: It’s a scalp cleanser and hair conditioner in one. “The apple cider vinegar in this rinse purifies, then argan oil moisturizes and aloe vera soothes with anti-inflammatory properties. That makes for smoother hair,” she explains.
Answer: With 58 percent of readers battling dryness and/or dandruff and 27 percent fighting oiliness, stabilizing moisture levels is a big goal all around. You know how you can use toner on your face to help keep your oil and moisture levels balanced? Well, there are toners that do just that for your scalp! Here, says Dr. King, “look for ingredients similar to those you use on the face.” That includes witch hazel and tea-tree oil for oily types and moisture-drawing hydrators like hyaluronic acid for dry ones.
“For anyone in need of immediate itch or irritation relief, this formula contains cooling menthol to soothe on contact,” says Dr. King. But then, over time, the benefits add up. “The astringent witch hazel and flake-busting piroctone olamine (an anti-fungal) keep the scalp toned and clean,” explains Dr. King.
“This soothing treatment will calm irritation and control oiliness at the same time,” says Dr. King, which means it’s ideal for folks experiencing a greasy-feeling scalp. “The key ingredient is the charcoal — it absorbs excess oil,” says Dr. King.
Attention people with parched roots: This elixir contains hyaluronic acid, which Dr. King describes as a powerful humectant (read: it helps draw hydration into the area) that just happens to be a darling of the dermatology world right now. And the fact that it’s packed with peptides means it nourishes for stronger strands as well.
Answer: The path to thicker hair is paved with ingredients that prevent irritation and skin damage, according to Dr. King, because “infections and inflammations of the scalp can result in decreased hair growth.” That means you want to protect, treat, stimulate, and soothe with peptides and other high-quality ingredients that won’t clog the follicle.
Miriam Quevedo Hair Multiplying Scalp Concentrate Plus Pre-Treatment Exfoliator (2 piece)
According to Dr. King, this kit is a hair-growth wonder. “The first step contains gluconolactona (a poly-hydroxy acid) which exfoliates to prep the skin to better absorb the ingredients in the second step. Then it gives a dose of growth factors, signaling proteins that bind to receptors on cell surfaces to send commands to repair, rejuvenate and replicate.” Translation: Your hair follicles are sleeping on the job, and this product helps to get them functioning the way they should.
“This thickener is fantastic because it has a densifying polymer to instantly add volume, but it’s also rich in antioxidants to help protect from damage caused by free radicals,” explains Dr. King. “And it helps dryness — studies have shown that topical niacinamide can have stabilizing effects on the skin's barrier function, which can help improve moisture retention.”
This anti-ager begins its work by exfoliating with salicylic acid to clear the way for easier growth, but it has an immediate impact on the look and feel of hair as well, according to Dr. King. “It has hydrolyzed keratin, which helps to fill in damaged areas of the hair shaft, temporarily boosting the strength.”
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